UPGRADED P3STEEL (a.k.a WORKHORSE)

Updated the 3D printer workhorse called the P3STEEL. It will be used for all my future projects and hopefully no more mods will be needed for it. Although there will always be problems that arise.

Here are the upgrade specs:

  • HTA3D Extruder with MK8 Drive – http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1208307
  • ACME/Trapezoidal Lead Screws TR8*1 – http://www.aliexpress.com/item/DIY-3d-printer-1-2-4-8mm-screw-lead-T8-metric-acme-lead-screw-with-fine/32355616905.html
  • Modified X Axis to hold TR8*1 Copper Nut – http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:973846
  • Decent Y Belt tensioner – http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1031592
  • Decent Y Axis Stepper Spacer – http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1004728
  • The excellent Ramps 1.4 Case from Dasaki – http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:761806
  • Drag Chain and x axis drag chain holder from HTA3D – http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1251084
  • Braided cable sleeving for tidyness – http://www.aliexpress.com/item/10M-4mm-Braided-Cable-Sleeving-Sheathing-Auto-Wire-Harnessing-Marine-Electric-HG1852/32543976601.html
  • Shrink tubing for that extra touch – http://www.aliexpress.com/item/J34-Free-Shipping-150pcs-Assortment-Heat-Shrink-HeatShrink-Tubing-Tube-Sleeving-Wrap-Wire/32339397148.html
  • Newly designed y axis belt pulley assembly – to be uploaded to thingiverse
  • z-axis leadscrew bearing holders – to be uploaded to thingiverse
  • Ramps 1.4 case adapter plate – to be uploaded to thingiverse
  • Hot End Seasoning Oiling Unit – Retrofitted filament cleaner

Overall Specs (Not Including Upgrades)

I have tested printing a prototype part for a delta printer. Came out nicely. I learnt the importance of oiling the PLA filament while printing. There is a annoying tendency of PLA jamming in a all metal hotend. Simply coating the filament with oil, in my case 3 in 1 oil has prevented hot end clogs. The lead screws ordered from aliexpress weren’t straight although only slightly. Using the bearing clamp on the z-axis caused the x axis assembly to wobble, which ruined prints. Bearings clamps are not really necessary, only aesthetically pleasing to look at. The Igus Drylin Bearings have proved them self to be very good, maintenance free, a major upgrade in comparison to cheap lm8uu Chinese bearings. Good cable management was key to a clean build. Shrink wrap and braided cable sleeving for a tidy look. Brand new ramps 1.4 since my previous ramps had a burnt out mosfet for the heatbed. Upgraded the E3D lite6 to a E3D V6 hotend simply by exchanging heatsink assembly. This will give the printer the ability to print exotic materials such as polycarbonate, petg and other filaments materials.

The settings in marlin Arduino had to changed to accommodate the new parts. All stepper drivers were set to 1/32 stepping mode. The steps/mm are very easy to recalculate.

Here are the steps

  • For z-axis  = 6400 steps/mm
  • For x and y axis = 160 steps/mm

Max hotend temp set to 290 degrees celsius as thermistor can handle approximately a max of 300 degrees celsius. 10 degrees of safety room. Heatbed max temp set at 100 degrees celsius. Acceleration and velocity setting are at typical prusa i3 settings and i will fine tune this later.

More to come!

 

 

 

 

 

 

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